These are pictures showing the bracket I made, and the dual action mastercylinder that replaced the original Hudson Mastercylinder. I was able to still use the original brake pedal, and the original rod. 

To balance the system out, I used a proportioning valve. Also, with disc brakes, you need 2lb residual valves, placed as close as possible to the mastercylinder. The residual valves are blue.

I pushed the accordian rubber back in this picture, to show the original rod.

This is a good underside view, showing the valves, with the rod removed.

In order for the rod to be centered with the mastercylinder, I had to make a spacer between the frame, and the brake pedal housing.

This is a better view of the spacer.

And another view.

The front disc, is a conversion that is made for Hudsons by Bill LaBudd in Florida. You send him your original hubs, and a couple of weeks later, you'll recieve your hubs back, fitted to Chevy rotors. He supplies EVERYTHING, so basically it's a bolt-on operation. 

Another view of the LaBudds conversion.

I made all new stainless steel brake lines, using Eastwoods hydraulic flanger.  It stood up to stainless steel without a problem.

I had Currie Enterprises of California special-cut me a Ford 9in rear, posi-trak, with 3.08 gears and Explorer disc brakes, using the original rear as a pattern. It bolted in perfectly.

 When I took the upholstery off, I found lots of surface rust inside the doors.

I used a wire brush, then wet-sanded, to remove as much rust as possible, and then coated the inside of the doors with the Rust Encapsulator. First, I used a paint brush, and let the Encapsulator ooze into the cracks. The second coat, I sprayed, and fogged inside the doors pretty good.

Now that the weather is warming, maybe I'll be able to make a little more progress.

I left off when I was encapsulating the doors. After they were sprayed, I put them out in the sun to dry.

The fist blocksanding showed I have lots of work to do to get the doors smooth. The high areas are light gray, and the low areas are black.

These are the tools I'm using to do the block sanding.

After the first blocksanding, I put them back in the sun, to make sure all the solvents evaporate.

The front cap is the last part I have to take apart. Notice how rusty the nuts and bolts are, before I remove them. I let them soak overnight after spraying with WD-40. Also notice the cruddyhood latch and bracket.

These are the same nuts, bolts, hood latch, and bracket......after I put them in my tumbler.

These are the door strikers, as they came off the car.

Thesew are the door strikers after tumbling.

Back of strikers.....before.

Back of strikers.......after.

This is the headlight wiring terminal before I took it off.

This is the same terminal after tumbling.

After I removed the hardware off the hood, it was time to start prepping. My oldest daughter was home from college, so she thought she'd "play" on the Hudson a little.

Since I had WD-40 all over everything, we wet-sanded with water and Dawn, to get the oil out. She liked this much better than using the sander.

The hood, all encapsulated.

Thank goodness that this is the only chrome on the hood. I've had 2 estimates for having these4 pieces re-chromed. $600 and $1000. I need to find a good, but cheaper chrome shop!

Back side of hood chrome.

Now,it's time to take the front cap apart.

There's more rust in this picture, than was on the whole rest of the car. I don't know why the front cap was worse than the underside, but I've certainly got my work cut out for me.

This is a view from where the left front tire would be.

Two hours later, the front cap is apart, and I only snapped 2 bolts.

This is the beginnings of the paint booth I making inside my shop. I've got a 6hp, 60 gallon compressor. Notice the blue air lines.I have 4 water filters, and 3 traps. Yes, I know that's overkill, but at least I don't have to worry about water and trash getting in through the airlines. I'll be putting filters over the 2 windows in the rear of the shop, and fans to pull in fresh air.

I think my wife was sniffing some of the paint, while I wasn't looking! (ha)

I put a 2 sided wall of plastic around the compressor, so it wouldn't be sucking in the overspray. Fresh air will be coming in through the 2 windows

I'll take a couple of these windows out, and put filters and fans in them too, drawing out the fumes.

This is the first coat of the Hi-Fil primer sprayed. Now, more block sanding!

Block sanding has kind of been like watching grass grow. It's a slow process, but I'll keep spraying and block sanding until it's right.This door is nowhere close. I'm not a professional painter, so I haven't done this enough to develop a "feel" of how it's going to look, so I have my own way to help me know the finish is smooth. When I think the part is smooth, I spray water on the part, then wait about 1 minute. The residual water will show every imperfection.

Hood, all block-sanded, but I can't tell if it's really smooth by looking, or rubbing my hands over it.

Spraying it with water, lets me know if it's smooth.

Since my last update, the only pieces ready to paint are this hood, and the trunk lid. I still have a long way to go for the rest of the car.